It’s considered a “level 2” driver assist, enhancing the existing adaptive cruise or lane keep assist built into the vehicle (which are also considered level 2 and perfectly legal) The driver is still completely responsible for anything the vehicle does.
That said IANAL, but I feel comfortable with this level of vehicle modification and any liability involved.
A Comma 3 to run Openpilot on my Honda Civic. It’s lane keep / adaptive cruise control on steroids. I drive about 40 thousand miles each year for work, 46 miles round trip on “local” days. Having that level of driver assist on the highway makes a life changing difference. I arrive less fatigued and feel more capable of reacting to hazards. Their tagline is making driving chill, and it really has delivered. I don’t know how I did this mileage before Openpilot.
Both. Verizon service at one of my offices is trash, but our family unlimited plan is ideal for just about everywhere else. I can’t beat the present pricing for the number of lines we have. My phone supports DSDS so I’ve got a physical Verizon sim as my primary and then a secondary esim that connects to T-Mo when needed.
Prosthetics. Costs are always blown way out of proportion because the media looks at just the device and ignores the professional expertise and custom fabrication work that goes into the devices. They also all like to hype that arms are “mind controlled” when they’re all using different variations of the same myoelectric technology that’s been around for years. There have certainly been dramatic advances as a result of better battery technology and 3D printing improvements to rapid prototyping, but what the media presents is typically very out of touch with reality. It’s even worse when you go from news media to movies and TV shows that set completely unrealistic expectations for patients.
Not necessarily. I’m on a daily medication that has a generic but is available in both extended release and immediate release forms. The extended release provides a more consistent dosage and has historically prevented me from getting sick. The immediate release causes inconsistent spikes and I have a history of getting sick on it. Insurance refused to pay for the extended release type for about 2 years before it made it onto their “formulary.” In the meantime I was using GoodRx and paying $100/mo instead of my paid health insurance pharmacy plan to make sure I wouldn’t get sick. The person I spoke to at the pharmacy management wing of the insurance company literally told me “you can get an app on your phone which will tell you when to take the immediate release medication.”
Ditto. I used Zenni for a few pairs but the frame quality is noticeably better on my Warby pairs. That said, I have a very high prescription, and Zenni did a better job on a lightweight high-index pair of prescription sunglasses than Warby did. The highest index sunglass option from Warby Parker still came out fairly hefty.
Seconded. I just used it this weekend to go from a 1TB drive to 2TB drive on a system with a single NVMe slot. Connected new NVMe in an enclosure, ran the copy, and the system shut down when done, I physically swapped the new drive in and it booted first try.
I use it when casting my patients who have a partial hand amputation. It works great as a separator for casting agents and allows me to easily easily slip a cast off of them. It also helps prevent ripping out too too many hairs during the process.
Great advice from everyone here. For the transcoding side of things you want an 8th gen or newer Intel chip to handle quicksync and have a good level of quality. I’ve been using a 10th gen i5 for a couple of years now and it’s been great. Regularly handles multiple transcodes and has enough cores to do all the other server stuff without an issue. You need Plex Pass to do the hardware transcodes if you don’t already have it or can look at switching to Jellyfin.
As mentioned elsewhere, using an HBA is great when you start getting to large numbers of drives. I haven’t seen random drops the way I’ve seen occasionally on the cheap SATA PCI cards. If you get one that’s flashed in “IT mode” the drives appear normally to your OS and you can then build software raid however you want. If you don’t want to flash it yourself, I’ve had good luck with stuff from The Art of Server
I know some people like to use old “real” server hardware for reliability or ECC memory but I’ve personally had good luck with quality consumer hardware and keeping everything running on a UPS. I’ve learned a lot from serverbuilds.net about compatibility works between some of the consumer gear, and making sense of some of the used enterprise gear that’s useful for this hobby. They also have good info on trying to do “budget” build outs.
Most of the drives in my rack have been running for years and were shucked from external drives to save money. I think the key to success here has been keeping them cool and under consistent UPS power. Some of mine are in a disk shelf, and some are in the Rosewill case with the 12 hot swap bays. Drives are sitting at 24-28 degrees Celsius.
Moving to the rack is a slippery slope… You start with one rack mounted server, and soon you’re adding a disk shelf and setting up 10 gigabit networking between devices. Give yourself more drive bays than you need now if you can so you have expansion space and not have to completely rearrange the rack 3 years later.
Also if your budget can swing it, it’s nice keeping other older hardware around for testing. I leave my “critical” stuff running on one server now so that a reboot when tinkering doesn’t take down all the stuff running the house. That one only gets rebooted or has major changes made when it’s not in use (and wife isn’t watching Plex). The stuff that doesn’t quite need to be 24/7 gets tested on the other server that is safe to reboot.